Can Istanbul Be Saved?
Posted by jonathanfryer on Friday, 30th September, 2016
When I first came to Istanbul nearly 50 years ago (as described in my childhood memoir, Eccles Cakes), it was an enchanting and exotic city of wooden houses, water-sellers and boats across the Bosphorus. Today, it is six times larger and the more they build and widen roads, the more the cars and lorries rush in to fill them. The romantic skyline looking northwards across the Golden Horn is now pierced by glass and steel towers in the distance. But it is not only in previous suburbs or vacant areas that high-rise development of an often undistinguished kind is racing ahead. Even in Pera, which used to be the elegant “European” quarter running down from Taksim Square, whole blocks are being demolished, and where new buildings are going up, they are totally out of character and bland. Even worse has been the loss of green space and trees. This morning I went to look at the gardens that used to be at the side of the (now refurbished) Pera Palas hotel. But they have gone, replaced by a huge, flat concrete slab — foundations for what, I wonder? The proposed removal of Gezi Park at Taksim brought thousands of protestors into the street and a temporary dispensation. But other areas around have been flattened and paved over. As the government prepares to prolong the state of emergency imposed after this summer’s abortive coup, will even Gezi Park be up for grabs for a megastore once again? Istanbul still has great appeal, but it it is no longer the unforgettably beautiful city that it was, and unless rigorous planning and preservation orders are brought in, I fear it will be totally ruined within a generation.